Versatile milling tools - precisely tailored to your requirements
Which cutter is right for which job?
With the right router bit, you can get the most out of your router and router table. Five types cover the most common tasks in woodworking—here’s an overview, including the matching RUWI router bits.
Rounding cutter
Rounding cutters break sharp edges and round them off cleanly. A small radius, such as R2, makes workpieces easier to grip; larger radii, such as R6 or R10, give tabletops and handrails a smooth feel. The guide bearing guides the cutter along the edge—even on curved contours.
For RUWI , the options range from R2, R3, R4, R5, R6, and R8 to R10 and R12.7. The larger the radius, the larger the cutter—choose it based on the desired curvature.
Chamfering cutter
A chamfering cutter bevels the edge at an angle—usually 45°, for example, for miter cuts, exposed edges, or deburring. For straight, wide chamfers, use the large chamfering cutter with an indexable insert (the cutting edge can be rotated instead of being resharpened) or the fixed-insert version. The miniature chamfering cutter with a 5 mm diameter guide bearing is designed for tight inside corners and small radii. If the cutter needs to machine both the top and bottom edges at the same time, the double rounding/chamfering cutter handles this.
Flush milling cutter
Flush cutters trim protrusions flush with a reference surface—whether copying templates or flush-milling edge banding. The guide bearing runs along the edge or template. The flush cutter with indexable inserts is suitable for large, straight contours, while the flush cutter with a small guide bearing (Ø 9.5 mm) is suitable for tight inner radii.
Fluted milling cutter (disc groove cutter)
The slotting cutter mills narrow slots for flat dowels as well as grooves for back panels and drawer bottoms. You can adjust the depth using various stop blocks, allowing a single cutter to accommodate multiple flat dowel sizes—one tool instead of a separate flat dowel cutter.
End mill
With the W2 dovetail cutter for Hoffmann, you can machine dovetail and ridge joints with precision—for example, for drawer corners or as a bridge to the Hoffmann connector system. To ensure a clean fit, use a template or jig depending on the joint.
Indexable insert or fixed tool?
Two types, same job—the difference lies in the cutting edge. On a solid-tooth milling cutter, the carbide cutting edge is permanently brazed in place; when it becomes dull, you simply resharpen it. This produces a very clean cut edge and fine radii, which is important for visible edges and small profiles. With an indexable insert milling cutter, you unscrew the insert and turn it to a fresh edge instead of resharpening it—this saves time and keeps dimensions consistent, so it’s worth it for heavy use and long, straight contours.
In short: For fine, visible edges and tight radii, use the fixed-tooth version; for high throughput and large, straight surfaces, use the indexable insert. RUWI offers both types of chamfering and flush milling cutters.
What to keep in mind when milling
Clamp about two-thirds of the shank (6, 8, or 12 mm) into a clean collet—this ensures smooth operation. Larger cutters run at lower speeds; it’s better to make several shallow cuts than one that’s too deep. Too slow a feed rate causes burn marks; too fast a feed rate causes chatter marks. Always guide the cutter against its direction of rotation and wear ear protection, eye protection, and use a dust extraction system. Remove resin and adhesive residue regularly and check that the thrust bearing is moving freely—this significantly extends the tool’s service life.
What speed should be used for which milling cutter?
Rule of thumb: The larger the router bit, the lower the speed—otherwise, the cutting speed at the cutting edge will be too high, and the material will burn or smear. The following guidelines apply to wood on the RUWI router table (continuously adjustable from 8,000 to 25,000 rpm; up to 30,000 rpm on the Performance model):
| Cutter diameter | Recommended speed (rpm) |
|---|---|
| up to Ø 25 mm | 18,000–24,000 |
| Ø 25–40 mm | 16,000–20,000 |
| Ø 40–60 mm | 12,000–16,000 |
| over Ø 60 mm | 8,000–12,000 |
Real-world examples: sanding a softwood edge with a sanding belt holder (Ø 15 mm) at approximately 8,000 rpm to remove burn marks, flush-milling multiplex (Ø 19 mm) at 18,000–22,000, cutting a Lamello groove in particleboard (Ø 40 mm) at no more than 18,000, and sanding plastic edges at around 12,000 to prevent slippage. Plastic and sanding operations generally run slower than wood. If in doubt, start at a lower speed and adjust gradually with a test cut.
Grinding and Accessories
In addition to the cutters, sanding belt holders can also be used in the same chuck: Simply insert the Ø 15 mm or Ø 30 mm sanding belt holder with a 6 mm shank to sand curves and internal contours that are difficult to reach by hand with sandpaper. The corresponding sanding belts (Ø 15, Ø 30) are consumable parts.
Clamping collets with a lock nut are available in several sizes for the router table; for the more powerful models, the Performance version is available.
Which machines are these cutters compatible with?
All cutters have a shank diameter of 6, 8, or 12 mm and are therefore compatible with any standard router—such as those from Festool, Mafell, or Bosch—as well as the RUWI router table. On the multi-spindle router table, you can keep several of these cutters clamped in place at the same time and switch between rounding off, chamfering, and flush routing without having to change tools. You can see which speed matches which cutter diameter in the table above.
Frequently Asked Questions About Milling Cutters
Which router shank fits my machine—6, 8, or 12 mm?
That depends on the collet. Most router tables and the RUWI router table come standard with an 8-mm collet; there are also 6-mm and 6.35-mm collets available for inch-sized shanks. 12-mm shanks require a machine with a compatible chuck—for the RUWI router table, this is the Performance model with a Ø 12-mm collet. Before purchasing, check which shank sizes your machine accommodates.
Carbide (HM) or HSS—which should I choose?
Carbide-tipped cutters (HM) are the standard for wood, panel materials, and plastic: They retain their cutting edge significantly longer than HSS cutters and cut cleanly even in materials containing adhesive, such as particleboard or MDF. HSS is softer and is intended more for occasional work in softwood. RUWI cutters are carbide-tipped.
What speed should be used for which milling cutter?
As a rule of thumb: small cutters require high speeds, large cutters require low speeds. The recommended speeds by diameter are listed in the table above. When working with plastic or sanding, use a slower speed than when working with wood to prevent burning or smearing.
Can I also use a router in a router table?
Yes. They’re the same shank cutters—you clamp them in the collet, whether in a hand-held router or under the plate of the RUWI router table. On the multi-spindle router table, you can even have several cutters clamped in at the same time, allowing you to switch between rounding, chamfering, and flush milling without having to change tools.
My starter bearing is running rough—what should I do?
Resin and adhesive residue are usually the cause. Clean the bearing regularly and check to see if it spins freely. If it's worn out, it can be replaced—just contact us for a replacement bearing.
Can I have the cutters resharpened?
You can have fixed-tooth carbide end mills resharpened multiple times by a sharpening service until the cutting geometry no longer allows it. With indexable-insert end mills, there’s no need for sharpening at all—you simply rotate or replace the insert.
Should I mill in the same direction or in the opposite direction?
As a general rule, use counter-feed—that is, move the cutter in the opposite direction of the feed—as this is safer and prevents the workpiece from being torn away. Co-feed should be reserved for controlled, machine-guided operations.
