Routing curves in wood - rounding wood edges in 5 steps
It's this easy: Perfectly milled rounded edges using a router or router table
Rounding edges is one of the most common woodworking operations. It not only improves the look of furniture and workpieces but also makes them safer and more pleasant to handle. Sharp edges are processed to be less pointed and therefore less prone to causing injury.
This 5-step guide shows you how to router table wooden edges using a hand router and a router table —from choosing the right tool to setting the cutting depth and finishing the piece.
Milling Curves onrouter table RUWI router table
Table of Contents
- Important facts at a glance
- Preparation
- Guide to routing a curve
- Tips for improving the routing result
- Machines and tools for routing curves
- What other types of circular routing are there?
- FAQ
Important facts at a glance
Preparation: Decide which machine and rounding bit are best suited for your project.
Execution: Pay attention to the correct setting of routing depth, speed, and routing direction.
Post-processing: Also, make sure to allocate enough time and the right expertise for the finishing touches.
Preparation: What do I need to rout a curve in wood?
Round routing opens up many possibilities to transform your workpiece visually and tactilely. Our step-by-step guide will walk you through it, from preparation to execution.
Router or router table: Both machines are suitable for rounding edges. Which one you choose depends on the workpiece: Anything you can carry to the machine goes on the router table; assembled parts and large panels are best handled by the hand-held router.
Router Bit: When milling a curve on a wooden part, selecting the right router bit is crucial. Use various router bits in different sizes to achieve the desired curve – from small edge breaks to large radii. There are also special tools like the Doppelabrund- und Fasenfräser R2, which lets you work on two edges simultaneously.
Clamping Devices: When using a hand-held router, clamping devices such as a 200-mm Bessey screw clamp with clamping bolt and clamping jaws are essential for positioning your workpiece securely and precisely. On the router table , it’s the opposite: There, the workpiece rests on a large surface and is guided by the stop, allowing both hands to remain on the wood. The tool guard and guide ring make even the smallest parts manageable.
Protective Equipment: Working with a router or router table the proper protective gear. Therefore, always wear safety glasses and ear protection. Depending on the material and tool, a dust mask may also be advisable.
Make sure all your tools and materials are in perfect condition before you start rounding over. Thorough preparation not only ensures a better result but also your safety during the work process.
Material list
- Tilt-proof or non-slip base, or a workbench
- Workpiece to be Rounded Over
- Material for a Test Cut
- Sandpaper
Tools
- Handheld router table or router table
- Radius router bits, quarter-round router bits, or rounding router bits
- Clamping tools
- Sandpaper or sanding block
- Dust extraction, PPE (Personal Protective Equipment)
Guide to routing a curve
In this step-by-step guide, we'll show you how to create router table in your workpiece using a router or a router table . From selecting the right radius size to checking and finishing the results, we'll guide you through the entire process.
Step 1: Defining and setting the desired radius size
You should choose the size of the rounding based on aesthetics and functionality. A minimum requirement is often an R2 rounding cutter to create a chamfer and soften sharp edges. Where the edge is gripped by the hand—such as on handrails, grab bars, or seating—a larger radius (≥ R5) is recommended: it feels better in the hand, and the edge is less likely to splinter. On furniture fronts, however, aesthetics are usually the deciding factor.
Make sure the machine is turned off and unplugged while you are using the tool. When clamping it in, make sure the rounding tool collet shank the collet up to the mark on shank .
Selection of router bits for rounding
Step 2: Setting the routing depth
If you want to round curved edges, we recommend a rounding router bit with a bearing. The bearing traces the contour and guides the router bit smoothly along the curved edge. For straight workpiece edges, you can also use a router bit without a bearing by guiding the workpiece along the fence of the router table or the parallel fence of the handheld router. In both cases, though, it's important to set the routing depth correctly.
The cutter's radius should be flush with the machine table. If the cutter extends too far, it creates a step; if it doesn't extend enough, a small edge forms at the transition. You can adjust the cutter height using a digital setting gauge or on a test piece until the outermost edge of the cutter just touches the wood surface. A test cut will show you if you have the right setting.
Tip: Sometimes it can be a good idea to intentionally set the rounding cutter a little deeper to achieve a specific decorative edge effect (the “German Stab”). Try out different settings to find the look you want.
Step 3: Clamping and safety devices
When working with a hand router, the workpiece must be securely clamped—the machine moves, not the wood. Use screw clamps, quick-release clamps, or clamping jaws. To prevent indentations in the wood, place a shim between the workpiece and the clamp. For heavy workpieces, it may be sufficient to place them on a support rail with a non-slip surface. Then you can rout all around it without a clamp getting in the way. However, make sure the workpiece doesn’t slip.
On router table , however, the workpiece router table guided rather than clamped. The table comes equipped with a tool guard and a pressure device. Plastic spacer rings minimize the gap between the workpiece and the rounding cutter and maximize the contact surface—this allowsrouter table very small parts to be safely rounded onrouter table RUWI router table .
Note: Remember to use dust extraction and always wear your PPE (hearing protection, dust mask) when working with machines and tools.
Router rounding a workpiece edge
Step 4: Rout the rounding
Once you have carefully adjusted the milling depth and installed the clamping or safety devices, you can begin the actual milling process. First, check that the correct speed is set, and then turn on the machine.
When feeding by hand, milling is performed in a counter-feed motion: The cutting edge moves toward the feed at the point of contact, the cutting force acts against the direction of your push, and the workpiece remains controllable. In a co-feed motion, the tool pulls the workpiece toward it on its own—this self-feed cannot be controlled by hand.
For more on this, see the article " Counter-rotation Milling."
Guide the router bit along the edge with even pressure and at a steady speed. When using a hand-held router, it’s especially important to make sure the router doesn’t tilt. On router table , the workpiece router table on a large surface area, so you guide the workpiece (rather than the machine).
Tip: Using a suitable rounding bit on router table , you router table a square strip into a round rod—using a clamping device, not freehand. See the FAQ below for information on how the strip dimensions and bit radius relate to each other; there’s a video on this under“Routing a Round Rod.”
Routing curves with a handheld router
Step 5: Checking and finishing
Carefully inspect your routed workpiece for any irregularities or unevenness. Make sure the curve is uniform and cleanly executed. If you spot any irregular depressions (chatter marks), your guide bearing might be dirty, or your feed rate was too high. Trying a slightly slower speed can often help.
You can carefully smooth out minor imperfections and the transition from the curve to the flat surface with 120 to 180 grit sandpaper. Make sure to wear a protective mask to shield yourself from wood dust.
Once you're done routing, clean your router bit and check it for any damage. If needed, get the tool sharpened.
Tips for improving the routing result
- Practice makes perfect: Start by routing on a practice piece to get a feel for the machine before you tackle your final project.
- Milling cutter quality: Pay attention to the cutting material and the ability to resharpen—for tools used frequently, a resharpenable milling cutter or a version with indexable inserts is a worthwhile investment.
- Adequate support surface: For larger workpieces, a table extension can help increase the support surface.
- Prevent tipping: Increase the contact surface of a hand-held router by screwing a Plexiglas plate (about 25 × 25 cm) under the base. Or place material of the same thickness parallel to the edge so that the router rests stably.
- Multiple passes: For large curves, it’s better to mill in several passes to minimize chip removal and achieve a cleaner finish.
- Care and Maintenance: Clean your router bits and router after each use. Check for sharpness and read the operating manual to ensure everything runs smoothly.
Machines and tools for routing curves
Choosing the right woodworking machine depends on the project type and size, as well as the desired profile size and precision:
- Hand-held routers: For assembled parts, large panels, and on-site work. This includes the edge router, which is specifically designed for edge finishing.
- router tables: For mass production and any application where settings need to remain consistent across many parts. Used in woodworking shops, training facilities, and industrial settings. The RUWI router table GS- and DGUV-certified; the safety hood, tool guard, and insert ring are included as standard equipment.
- Stationary bench-top milling machines or CNC milling machines: For large profiles, complex or high-volume milling jobs.
- Sanding machines (e.g., belt sanders): Suitable for rounding edges, but they do require practice. They're good for organic shapes.
- Hand planes: If you prefer the classic approach and are skilled enough, you can also manually plane a curve.
The RUWI router tables Performance and Premiumrouter tables
Edge sanding machine as an alternative to routing
What other types of circular routing are there?
Besides the common 'edge rounding', there are other types of roundover routing:
- Routing a rounded corner: This is when you round the outside corners of a surface, like a tabletop.
- Routing instead of drilling: This is when you want to route a hole in a workpiece, for example, for a round sink cutout in a kitchen countertop.
FAQ
Why does the curve have brown spots or burn marks in some areas?
This can happen due to excessive speed, too slow a feed rate, or a dull cutter. Too much friction generates heat, which can burn the wood. So, make sure to use an appropriate speed, a brisk feed rate, and sharp tools.
Why is the routed roundover profile uneven or rough?
If the guide ring is dirty or the workpiece wasn't guided properly, so-called planing marks or unevenness may occur. An excessively high feed rate can also cause chatter marks. Clean the guide ring, adjust the speed, and ensure the workpiece is guided securely. If there is only slight roughness, you can finish the surface with fine-grit sandpaper.
How can I make a dowel?
To make a round rod, you’ll need a square strip whose cross-section matches the radius of your router bit. Example: A round rod with a 16 mm diameter requires an R8 quarter-round router bit and a 16 × 16 mm strip. For an R12.7 mm bit, you’ll need a 25.4 × 25.4 mm strip (2 × 12.7 mm). This is easier to do on router table a clamping device than freehand with a hand router.
What's the right roundover radius for my workpiece?
That depends on your desired look and the function. A small radius (e.g., R2) looks subtle, while a larger radius (≥ R5) makes the edge more tactile. It's best to test on a scrap piece to see what you like most.
How do I set the correct speed for my router table?
Never exceed the maximum speed (see the rating on the cutter). Within this limit, the speed depends on the cutter’s diameter: the larger the cutter, the lower the speed. Too high a speed combined with too low a feed rate leads to heat and scorch marks—softwoods and resins-rich woods are particularly susceptible to this. Conversely, a feed rate that is too high relative to the speed leaves visible planing marks. It’s best to test different settings on a scrap piece of wood.
